Indigo is a rich blue dye that was widely used throughout the ancient
world, from Indonesia to Europe. The distinctive dark blue color has
made this dye famous, with a variety of synthetics being used today to
produce indigo which is colorfast and fade-resistant, in contrast with
that of natural origins used historically. Many craft stores sell it in
their dye sections for people who want to work with this dye directly.
The
earliest records of indigo date to around 1600 BCE, and seem to suggest
that the use of this dye probably originated in India, spreading out to
the Middle East and China and diffusing from there. In fact, the name
comes from the Latin indicum, which means “of India.” Indigo quickly became a very popular color thanks to its depth and saturation, which made wool, cotton, and linen garments incredibly dark.
This dye was historically sourced from plants in the genus Indigofera,
a member of the pea family native to Asia. Indigo could also be
extracted from woad, as it was in the British Isles, and from some
shellfish in the genus Murex, also used by the Phoenicians to make another famous dye, Tyrian Purple.
The compound that creates the blue color is actually not soluble in
water, so in order to turn it into a dye, people had to subject it to
chemical treatments. Some of these treatments were quite harsh, leading
to health problems at textile manufacturing facilities and occasionally
attracting attention from social reformers
Historically, many people simply soaked their indigo in stale urine
to turn it into a dying compound, leading dyemakers to be exiled to the
fringes of cities in some regions due to the smell. Indigo could also be
fermented to make a dye, as was done in Asia, and some people simply
painted it directly onto substances they wished to dye. Textiles also
had to go through multiple dye cycles for the color to take, and it
usually only penetrated the upper layers, leaving behind a white core.
Since 1900, most companies that want to work with indigo use
synthetic dyes. These dyes are stronger than the natural ones, and also
more predictable, ensuring that batches retain consistent coloration. Denim
is one famous product traditionally made with indigo; the distinctive
wear of jeans is the result of the wear patterns of the dye, which
naturally fades out through repeated washes.
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